Wait @ Pitti 96: Baudelaire's "Les Fleurs du Mal" take shape through the Givenchy's menswear

The SS2020 men’s collection by Claire Waight Keller for Givenchy was presented during the Pitti Uomo 96 fashion trade.

The show took place in the fascinating and historic Villa Palmeri, presented a relaxed and lively soul fashion show. And right there, among the extremely well-kept lemon and shrub trees, Clare Waight Keller unveiled her proposal on how the Givenchy man should dress for the spring/summer 2020.

With this collection, the English designer evokes the cursed poet of “Les Fleurs du Mal” through suits made up of three-button or double-breasted jackets, all with large volumes that marry shades of light-dark creating surfaces whose narrative brings to mind the gloomy poetry typical of Baudelaire.

The Gothic calligraphy of ‘Fleurs du Mal’ is fragmented to compose abstract prints. But nowadays, we know that every luxury brand must also deal with streetwear and for this collection, Waight Keller’s approach to this world has been represented through ultralight Korean fabrics used in parkas that transform any movement in a slow-motion to the Matrix, while the brilliance of the “velvet-touch nylon” (which is exactly what it seems) gives the outerwear a new level of refinement.

Born in Beauvais and developed among the tapestries of “La Manufacture des Gobelins”, Hubert de Givenchy‘s propensity towards baroque splendor is reborn in the archival Italian jaquards on overcoats and trousers that transform themselves leaving behind the floral motifs to embrace new pixellated shapes.

The extravagance of the technique expressed by the jackets covered by shimmering 90s-style racks, is found in the silver stripes and is emphasized by voluminous crepe scarves giving a casual interpretation of evening wear.

In a balance of performance and elegance, the accessories combine a wide range of refined and functional details. Classic and industrial motifs intertwine to create chain jewels with baroque-inspired pearls, magnetic closure belts, tote bags and trekking backpacks in leather and jacquard embellished with a jewel closure.

One category that no brand can ignore in 2019 are the sneakers and even Givenchy lets itself be carried away by this trend, presenting however only athletic silhouettes, from runners to slip-ons and, curiously, some pairs of Onitsuka Tiger Mexico 66. This last model, obviously it was made in collaboration between the two brands Givenchy and Onitsuka Tiger.

A thoughtful approach to tailoring, both in the concept and in craftsmanship, this was once again the main theme of Waight Keller’s work for Givenchy.

Posted By

Francesca Montuschi

Trendsetter sin dai tempi dell'asilo (già allora decidevo i miei outfit). Giornalista di moda, sempre alla ricerca di nuove tendenze, ma nostalgica dell'eleganza del passato.