The guest designer of Pitti Uomo 95, Glenn Martens received blank page and the keys of the city of Florence to perform a magical happening around the Y/Project brand Fall/Winter 19/20 fashion show.
After making her debut in Paris as a junior designer for Jean Paul Gaultier and Martin Margiela, Glenn Martens arrives at Y/Project as creative director and soon the brand has achieved worldwide success.
Under his direction, in fact, the avant-garde brand has rebounded from the road to haute couture, challenging all the proportions of fashion and fading the gap between man and woman to create their own recontextualized style.
To present his new collection, Martens stages a fashion show at the large cloisters of one of the greatest jewels of the Renaissance city: the church of Santa Maria Novella, a Gothic beauty of the XIVth century.
The new collection, consisting of 50 outfits, is in some way a celebration of the Y/Project identity that reaffirms the creative impact that Glenn Martens has produced in the last five years: each garment, absolutely genderless and flexible in stitching, buttoning and zip, can be deconstructed and reconstructed according to the needs and preferences of the wearer.
Strong and recognisable aesthetic codes, such as pop-up trousers and double-shoulder shirts, continue to lead Y/Project this season, but now they are developed in a softer and more elegant way. The characteristics of the “pop-up” and the double shoulder permeate the wardrobe tailored, giving unexpected 3D effects to classic wool trousers and reinterpreting the formal tuxedo in the conceptual language of the brand.
Also in this collection we see continuing the concept of Y/Project to weave gender archetypes. The classic sweater is wrapped in a layer of printed tulle, with almost psychedelic optical effects. The overlay coating technique developed in the SS19 collection has been renewed this season, graphic prints are mixed with iconic pieces, such as western shirts wrapped in layers of floral veils.
The men’s line is expanding towards new territories: for the first time the brand offers its own lines of shoes and bags, both handmade in Italy. The black nylon bags have a brown leather frame and are available in a variety of models: gym bag, backpack and baby carrier. The boots up to the thigh continue the experimental journey of the brand, which fully interprets the transgenerational desire to experiment with new possibilities.
