Make contemporary what has become a classic through time: the tuxedo. This is what Miaoran was called to do by the Parisian fashion store LECLAIREUR, which opened in 1980, for the capsule collection Men by Night, now on sale at the store. The made in Italy brand, which in a short time has been able to express its individual character and its genderless style, has thus created night suits that fully expresses the man of our time. But smoking history, or tux for Americans, has far-reaching origins that is worth mentioning, to understand this new collaboration.
Smoking, still used today for important events such as wedding ceremonies, gala evenings and other occasions of the same tenor, sees its genesis within the world of men’s fashion in the late 1800s, replacing the frac (still used today by orchestra conductors). The name chosen for this particular detail to be strictly worn après dix-huit, correctly evokes the act of smoking. And it’s just to protect the most intimate clothes from the cigar waffle – rather in vogue at the time and classic companion for a poker game – that was packed. So in England it is called a smoking jacket, today, however, the English lords define it as a dinner jacket, while in Italy, during fascism, it is customary to call it a dinner giacchetta. It is Griswold Lorillard to import it to the States at the same time. He, dandy from the heart, dressed it for a drink with friends at the Tuxedo Club in New Jersey. And it’s just from the name of the club that the tuxedo is born, at least for Americans. The rest is history.
What Miaoran inherits for this capsule with LECLAIREUR is not just an icon of men’s clothing, but also a piece of history. The brand makes it its own using an oriental aesthetic that joins an Italian tailoring. The latter is made concrete thanks to the contribution of selected materials from the collections of exhibitors showing at Première Vision Paris. A mix of cultures, approaches and knowledge serving a timeless male suit.
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