Riccardo Tisci officially returns to the catwalk. At Burberry, to be precise, the historic English brand for which he was appointed creative director on March 1, 2018, after years of driving the French fashion house Givenchy. And from the style of the Ville Lumiere to the one made in the UK, the step is certainly not easy, especially if it involves two completely different aesthetic worlds. Gradually, in fact, the Apulian designer has made its way through the archives of the company, creating capsule collections, in which he reinterpreted some key items, such as the raincoat.
In London, Tisci presents the autumn-winter 2019 collection of the fashion house founded in 1856 in Basingstoke, United Kingdom. The first completely his. Although, unlike some of his counterparts, it does not upset the codes, trying to impose his point of view. Rather, he emphasizes the history of the British brand by adding its personality, well known to industry critics.
The British style, political current affairs – see Brexit – the Z generation and its tools, such as social networks and images that are shared, are the sources of inspiration for the creative, which are emphasized, especially the last two, in the first part of the défilé which winks at sportswear. And it is also the least engaging part of the show. In fact, Riccardo Tisci manages to give his best when it comes to reinterpreting the taste of the English capital, especially as regards the male wardrobe. Impeccable. Not only for its trench coats, in which the nova check is unmissable, the historical print of the brand, famous, discussed (and copied) all over the world. The details in fur and leather, in fact, make the difference. The woman is sexy, confident. The most interesting coat is for her (photo n.2). She abandons the bourgeois look and invents her own elegance, which, however, can not stand comparison with the menswear.
Pros and defects have them in every collections. Obviously. And it would not be art if it were not so. So, beyond the quality or not, it must be admitted that compared to other fashion houses, which have recently experienced changes at the top, that of Tisci is the best proof. Not only in terms of style but of respect for those who preceded him at Burberry, without however debasing his being.
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