Jean Paul Gaultier x Supreme: a perfect union between originality and classicism

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The legendary French designer Jean Paul Gaultier has not produced a prêt-à-porter collection since 2014, which makes his collaboration with Supreme, recently announced, particularly surprising. Not only is it a seemingly unexpected choice on the part of the New York brand, but Gaultier’s recent reticence towards conventional clothes makes it an unlikely “streetwear” companion. However, the cacophonous creations of the “enfant terrible” of French fashion have shocked the elite of the fashion world since the early 1980s, reflecting a rebellious streak that mirrors the anti-establishment ethos of former Supreme, Gilbert & George collaborators .
Gaultier’s career began with his love for streetwear. “I was very influenced by streetwear [in the early years]” he had revealed last year. “I think it’s great. But it has to be at the price of streetwear: I don’t like it when it’s a kind of plagiarism.”

Although this collaboration can make Gaultier speak again, the designer has never really left the sector: he continues to introduce new fragrances and haute couture garments. Haute Couture has been the specialty of the Gaultier brand since its inception, utilizing Gaultier’s unparalleled ingenuity. The designer has more than earned his place in the history of fashion; Madame Tussaud’s New York wax museum even has a Gaultier figure on display.

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At the tender age of 24, Gaultier hosted his first fashion show in Paris, after working for the French idiosyncratic Pierre Cardin , attracting the attention of the editors of the main fashion magazines thanks to his eye attentive to details and extravagant and opulent clothes. These included delicate layered tulle dresses, a range of cropped tailoring and graphic shirts, a rarity for cultured French fashion events. At the same time that COMME des GARÇONS and Yohji Yamamoto shocked French buyers and journalists with their completely black and heavily deconstructed collections, Gaultier was providing a different kind of very high asynchronousness. “What is masculine and what is feminine, anyway?” Asked Gaultier on several occasions. “Why should men not show that they are fragile or seductive? I am happy only when there is no discrimination”.

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His divisive work on the catwalk brought him many critics , but he also designed for famous admirers like Madonna , who wore his iconic pointed bra in his Blond Ambition World Tour in 1990. This started several requests to create wardrobe for films, including “The Fifth Element” and a series of films by Pedro Almodóvar. Marilyn Manson wore several Gaultier creations in 2003, the same year that the latter became creative director of Hermès , where he remained until 2010.

Currently, Gaultier continues to design haute couture collections, demonstrating his boundless sense of creativity. Although he no longer designs prêt-à-porter, the designer’s influence can be found throughout the sector; Gaultier mentored Martin Margiela in the mid-1980s – in response to the presentation of Gaultier’s debut in 1976, Margiela told Vogue: “I was seized with an emotion that I had never experienced before”. John Galliano’s sumptuous presentations of the 1990s are almost an ode directed at Gaultier. Gaultier also broke down the barriers in casting, representing men and women of all ages and body types in his previous presentations, just to get an idea of the world of fashion.

Gaultier has proved to be not only prescient, but progressive , constantly taking initiatives that push the fashion dialogue forward. The collaboration with Supreme, which includes a double breasted blazer, cargo suit pants and vest, double breasted plaid faux fur coat, printed trucker jacket, hooded Sweatshirt, sweatpant, t-shirt, the perfume The Male Fragrance , belts and a set of sunglasses. Completing the capsule collection are two pairs of Vans, the Chukka Pro and the Era Pro, which will bring back the graphics already seen on sweatshirts and joggers.

Jean Paul Gaultier x Supreme, composed of 17 pieces will be released on April 11th at all Supreme stores and on the online site.