Who The Fuck Is Andrea Pompilio?
Only a few days left until the release of Andrea Pompilio’s Spring Summer 2021 collection and we had the opportunity to chat with the designer, discovering his background and his inspirations.
Can you tell us about your background?
I had an extremely creative family background, with my father an architect and my mother a painter. In Pesaro my grandmother owned some boutiques where I spent a lot of my time and I certainly inherited my taste and passion for fashion from her. Already at 8 I wanted to be a designer and it was just like that!
What was your main inspiration for starting your career as a Fashion Designer?
The real professional inspiration comes from my two grandparents, army officers in impeccable military uniforms and elegant gentlemen. They are the ones who somehow conveyed to me the taste and attention for certain masculine styles and who forged my creative identity. These elements are then effectively entered into my collections, which are always very tailored and rich in details that refer to the military style.
We have seen that after so many years, for the Spring Summer 2021 season you have re-presented a women’s collection, tell us a little more in detail about your approach to womenswear.
Five years after my last women’s collection, I wanted to go back to designing the line, a project that had been temporarily “put aside” to devote myself to something else, but which has always remained in my mind and will. I love to create women’s clothes that respect my ideal, and therefore reflect the main characteristics that are typical of the men’s line, from the combinations of fabrics and textures to classic cuts and simple lines. I imagine a strong woman with a great personality, who knows she can be charming even with a tailored jacket with a masculine cut that mixes with her feminine garments for an unexpected and unconventional sensuality.
It is something that I find extremely attractive.
What is the main aesthetic that guides your creations?
As a great observer of everything that surrounds me, I take inspiration, assimilate and re-elaborate in my collections, the result of notes, photographs, experiences and emotions. Made in Italy and Italian elegance are part of my DNA and a starting point for designing collections that are, however, very modern, cosmopolitan and with an aptitude for travel, both exterior and interior. Finally, a maniacal attention to shapes and details and great themes that always return: tailoring, volumes, lazy attitude, sport, military, stripes and checks, for example.
How important is the study of volumes in your collections for you?
Very important. This year, for example, volumes are returning to more standard than the oversize of past years. They are closer to the 70s, as seen in the coats, in the A-line skirt and in the rubber platforms. I wanted to go back to the rigid and architectural mood of those years and I used this style to design some pieces of the collection.
We know that previously and in parallel with the direction of your personal brand, you have worked with important brands. Tell us more about these experiences and how they influenced your upbringing.
After participating as a special guest in several editions of Pitti Immagine Uomo and winning the Who’s On Next competition in 2011, from SS13 I started collaborating with Onitsuka Tiger, of which I have been Creative Director since 2017 and whose shop in Milan was inaugurated in December XVIII, entirely and creatively designed by me and created by the architect. Filippo Dini, who was able to transform my thoughts into reality.
In 2012 I collaborated with Moncler, Boglioli and Jet Set while in 2013 I was the first designer to have benefited from the support of Giorgio Armani by parading with the SS14 collection, my real debut at Milan Fashion Week. From 2014 to 2016 I was Creative Director of Canali and from 2017 Creative Director of the men’s and women’s footwear and bags division of Diesel. Also in 2017 the capsule for Rossignol.
In 2018 I founded my men’s / children’s line Apn73 (APN73 = A PERSONAL NOTE 73, the initials of Andrea Pompilio and 1973, his year of birth) which retraces my personal creative path of my experiences. In 2019, however, the capsule with La Martina for the SS20 collection.
What’s your favorite piece from the Spring Summer 2021 collection? Because?
For women, the floral trench coat in double and lasered dévoré haute couture fabric, which creates raw-cut and frayed flowers in the underlying fabric. For men, the 60s striped, dry jacket with ribbed velvet inserts. Simplicity and architectural rigidity typically from the 1970s.
What are your future goals?
An increasingly consistent development for the women’s collection. We are then bringing the collection to Europe in collaboration with the Chinese JNBY that we will present for the second time with a video during Fashion Week. The unique men’s and women’s collection will instead be presented as last time, in the women’s Fashion Week edition, skipping the calendar dedicated to men.
And new projects and collaborations will be out soon!
CONTACTS:
Instagram: @andrea_pompilio
Website: www.andreapompilio.it
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