Matthew M. William started to look after Givenchy creative director’s dresses last year, but we hadn’t really seen him on stage in his new position yet. Well, what could be better than a new era with a subversive and cutting-edge show?
The show was held on a runway filled by water, the location was such a humid gallery with concrete details around it. Models appeared dressed in items far from the rules of a canonical, traditional and conformist luxury. We could define it as ‘the new Generation Z luxury’.
Williams is totally personified in the role of a huge and tireless experimenter, staying on the rise of a fashion that wants to change the game’s rules with an aesthetic mixed between the utility style and traditional tailoring. Overall, the man seems to be returning from a science fiction trip, suddenly catapulted into a rave made in the Parisian underground. The woman similarly wears dresses made in a contrasting style.
First, items are extravagant, sometimes bizarre and confusing. Any examples? Naked parts ‘covered’ by bondage bras and transparencies, balaclavas, vinyl, dark tech fabrics and chains. Another unexpected detail were the boots inspired by the Alexander McQueen’s Armadillo shoes, from the “Plato’s Atlantis” show. In 2010 they were considered as excessive, but in any case they were brought back by Williams like a grotesque, extravagant and subversive element, that wanted to whisper the new William’s kingdom aesthetic revolution.
On the other hand, we find a basic and elegant tailoring, sequins, feathers and laminated fabrics; colors such as purple, orange and cream are warmer than the first one, confirming the eclectic experimentation. Even the use of furs in the collection, which is almost completely unusual now in the fashion world, was a risky choice. The creative director’s aspirational ‘goal’ is clear: to regain possession of a brand that has lost its identity over time. So, to make this happen, Matthew Williams has to own a new, fantastic exclusive dimension.
Scroll through the gallery to discover the other looks:
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