Hooded dresses: a trend from 80s

For all those who lived through the 80s, Grace Jones, a well-known Jamaican singer, was not only a charismatic figure of disco-pop music, known for her androgynous style, but a true style icon.

She is unforgettable in the film 007-Mobile Target, she is sensual and elegant, while she wears a purple dress with hood by Alaïa. A look that became representative of Grace, remembered as the queen of this widespread trend in the 80s, the period of everything is possible, of free fashion and out of control mix & match.

Hooded dress has its roots in antiquity, as witnessed by the Romans, by Maria Tudor I and Anna Bolena.

The hood has always been the hallmark of a strong and prestigious status, indeed, it was worn during religious functions and members of the royal families added it to their cloaks to raise their authority.

This accessory was not born only for social purposes but also with functional and practical intentions: to heat and hide and for this reason, seventeenth-century women used it to maintain anonymity in different situations.

Until we get to the 70s, when the hood became part of the New York hip-hop culture, giving clothing a cool and sporty touch, but at the same time with a meaning of rebellion.

Who doesn’t have at least one hooded garment in their closet today?

Hooded clothes were identified as difficult to wear and for the elite. Garments with minimalist features, but at the same time excessive: the perfect combination and representation of an eccentric decade.

They first appeared on the haute couture catwalks in Yves Saint Laurent‘s Fall Winter 1991/1992 collection. He was totally in love with women, which is why he literally made dresses of gold to express their strength, audacity and almost divine power.

This is how, in the 90s, the sheath dress with hood in golden fabric became iconic, whose draping recalls the statuesque and sumptuous forms of oriental temples.

Today, those who wear Saint Laurent want to communicate this strength and charm, the same seduction belonging to Miley Cyrus in the music video of her latest single “Flowers” while she is wearing a gold FW 91 hooded dress of the brand.

On the catwalks of the Spring Summer 2023 collections, there are many brands that have wanted to present their own interpretation of this beloved hood-evening dress combination.

Anthony Vaccarello was the first to present it as the absolute protagonist, drawing inspiration from the archives of the 80s, coloring it in chocolate brown, kiwi green, accompanied by chiffon and jersey, proposing variations of blazers and tops.

But also in the collections of Lanvin, Versace, Philosophy by Lorenzo Serafini, Chet Lo, Genny, Alberta Ferretti, Ferragamo, Tom Ford, Diesel, with a more sporty translation and Schiapparelli, just to name a few, we find versions of this garment elected the preferred by many.

The muses of this trend are not to be underestimated: from Grace Jones on the big screen, to Anna Oxa at the Sanremo festival in 1986, the same ones who contributed to making this garment memorable!

We were recently able to admire Margot Robbie wearing a hooded by Maison Alaia for the premiere of her latest film Babylon, but we count endlessly of appearances: Katie Holmes in Tom Ford; Jenna Ortega, better known as “Wednesday” in Yves Saint Laurent; Chiara Ferragni in Versace; even Beyonce was conquered by this particular garment, wearing a semi-transparent wine-colored Yves Saint Laurent dress; Elisa Maino in Alberta Ferretti and Bella Hadid in Alaïa are just some of the icons of show business who wore a long dress with “capuche”.

Fresh, daring, enveloping, sensual with a streetwear flavor, they have been able to capture the hearts of all celebrities and beyond. They have been able to captivate thanks to the magnificent union of luminous textures, hypnotic palettes and mysterious silhouettes.

If in the 80s it was a dress for the few, 2023 changes the rules of fashion which now belongs to everyone, as well as hooded dresses, destined to be one of the most spectacular trends of the year!