BEST OF: London Fashion Week Women Autumn Winter 2019/20

Even the London Fashion Week has come to an end and waiting for the Milan fashion week, we have gathered for you the best of the London fashion shows for the season Fall/Winter 2019-20.

Despite the undisputed protagonist of this edition was Riccardo Tisci who for the first time appeared on the catwalk to the creative guide of Burberry (here for the review), other designers have left their mark.
Among the other major shows we find Erdem and his eccentric heir or Christopher Kane with ultra-feminine clothes, but above all the strong activism typical of Vivienne Westwood (here for the review).

JW Anderson

The leading actors of the fashion show signed by JW Anderson were decidedly the coats, designed to wrap and fall from the body and at the same time “mechanical” in the construction, so you can be worn in totally different ways. In fact, Anderson wanted his woman to be totally wrapped, from head to toe. As can be expected from a designer who has received the handicraft prize, we find a large influx of hand-made elements, especially in the details of knitted thick tulle that intertwine in and out of the edges with a sensitivity similar to couture. Among the accessories, prominent elements were definitely the leather baseball hats, as described by Anderson himself “perched above the head”.

Victoria Beckham

Once again, Victoria Beckham concentrates her collection on tailoring. The fashion show, streaming on the Piccadilly Circus screens in London, presented mainly minimalist-cut pieces in shades of beige, black, red, yellow and blue. He also decided to put the emphasis on colorblocking, debuting with eccentric two-piece sets for the modern business woman, but at the same time a fashion lover.

Christopher Kane

Christopher Kane and his creative collaborator as well as sister Tammy, have for once abandoned the theme of fetishism to give space to a circus theme collection. This time, in fact, the protagonists were the looner, the food throwers and the “liquid ladies” to be protagonists represented in the form of ultra-feminine dresses in satin with “cupcake” style skirts. Other clothes were instead characterized by lace, transparencies, studs or bags, such as bags for blood transfusions and filled with neon colored liquids.

Roksanda Ilincic

To characterize the AW19 collection by Roksanda Ilincic is an explosion of colors and volumes of sumptuous outfits combined with other more masculine ones. In part couture, partly comfort, the models were wrapped in blankets similar to quilts thrown on the shoulder or tied around the neck. As already seen, Ilincic also proposes, though in a different way, protective clothing that is super enveloping us as a comfort to the insecurity that the world is experiencing now.

Erdem

Always in love with the eccentric woman, for the AW19, Erdem Moralioglu is inspired by the princess Orietta Doria Pamphilj, an important Roman heiress who returned to live in London, at his ancestral home, the Doria Pamphilj palace, when his family decided to oppose Mussolini. Erdem’s interest in the princess was triggered by the question of heredity, more precisely by “how to protect and cultivate a historical legacy, adapting it to our days”.
In fact, the clothes capture several eras, summarizing the accents of the Swinging Sixties of London and approaching them to the imposingness of the forties of Roman couture. And so it is that on the catwalk appear models dressed exactly like the designer’s muse. Velvet jacquards, silks and floral damasks, skirts printed with precious works of art of the palace and crystal dresses embroidered with pearls, are complemented by dramatic black veils, the same as the princess, fearing to be discovered as an enemy of the state, he wore to disguise himself.

Emilia Wickstead

Set in a rather intimate space like the Le Caprice restaurant in London, the AW19 collection by Emilia Wickstead was set on the soundtrack of The Godfather and explored the themes of power, tradition, integrity and loyalty. And like Mary Corleone, the muse of this collection, even the models paraded on the catwalk with a hats typical of the Sicilian tradition of the time. Wickstead, who moved to Italy as a teenager from her native New Zealand, has revived her natural appreciation for that austere Renaissance rigor with its bold shapes and strong colors. In fact, the entire collection is based on classic motifs like a dark brown wool dress that suggested a novice’s waiter’s robes or ruby-colored velvets that evoked a papal glow.

Posted By

Francesca Montuschi

Trendsetter sin dai tempi dell'asilo (già allora decidevo i miei outfit). Giornalista di moda, sempre alla ricerca di nuove tendenze, ma nostalgica dell'eleganza del passato.