A great start: Jacquemus men's spring-summer 2019

Jacquemus ss 19 men’s

Everything happened last night, at sunset, near Marseilles. In one of the many fascinating places of southern France, on the Côte d’Azur. We are, to be precise, in Calanque de Sormiou and the object of great interest is the first men’s collection signed Jacquemus for the next spring-summer, bearing the title Le Gadjo. Let’s face it, in the country of baguettes and wine before lunch it is not easy to assert itself in something, especially if this area, at first indefinite, turns out to be fashion, a very felt and competitive creative industry, since the days of Coco Chanel and Jean Patou. You have to be excellent, otherwise you end up in oblivion. Simon Porte Jacquemus – the second surname is that of the mother, to whom, after her death, the stylist dedicates his brand – it is. He is part of the happy few, that is to say those who, in the space of almost ten years, can build their own aesthetic history with a precise style, never predictable, through a clothing line, first in his case, feminine and then masculine.

Jacquemus ss 19 men’s

The first exit sees an adonis dressed in trousers and a stripped bomber, uncovering the chest, on whose neck there is a bag, in blue color. It is the Mediterranean, a land that the designer inspires continuously, through its flavors and places. It is no coincidence that he was born in Salon-de-Provence on 16 January twenty-eight years ago. From the small French village, not far from the sea, he arrives in Paris and from that moment, at least from a handful of seasons, his name is on everyone’s lips. And since the morning on social media the images of backstage, the party based on plastic or biodegradable dishes – it is not known – whose dishes resemble appetizing seafood recipes. Everyone is on the beach, standing, lying down or sitting on the beach towels created specifically for the occasion. Spontaneity and marketing blend beautifully.

Jacquemus ss 19 men’s

The other looks are powerful in their being destined to the peers of Simon: the apparent sartorial simplicity of the forms, which does not force the bodies, does not embarrass the eyes and is sublime on the part of Hellenic physicists able to carry them nonchalantly. After all, we are in the summer. The emblematic garments, which express the stylistic content of the collection, to make it short the must have are definitely the parkas, the shirts – from those with floral prints, even here the choice is never obvious, to those of geometric relief – to finish with sweatshirts, with hood or without, in any case all having the same meridian spirit to unite them.

Jacquemus ss 19 men’s

The colors emphasize and pay homage to the geography, as well as the sun that changes the tints of nature, as well as objects, in the manner of midi artists, operating in the early decades of the twentieth century, who moved from the ville lumière, too gray and taken by the processes of industrialization, they adopt the same procedure, but on canvases. Jacquemus does it on clothes, creating a rainbow of shades never brash, rather sexy and ironic.

Jacquemus ss 19 men’s

A great debut, then. With the hope that success will last for as many years, without affecting the authenticity maintained so far, especially at the creative level. It seems that for some of its counterparts it is difficult to do so and many of them, in fact, have found themselves having to come to terms with the system, perhaps a little too much. Simon, on the other hand, seems to have his head on his shoulders, perhaps dressed in a beautiful open shirt, recalling the typical shades of sunsets on the Côte d’Azur. On the beach, among friends.